NABOKV-L post 0007394, Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:26:09 -0800

----- Original Message -----
From: Dmitri Nabokov
To: 'don barton johnson'
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 4:20 PM
Subject: Montreux instructions for S. Aksenov





I was hurriedly starting this when Guide Brian's version popped up. I'll leave in what may still be useful.



My parents' urn is buried at the Cimetière de Clarens, av. Rambert 27. The cemetery s a 10' taxi ride, 15' by bus (ask the man to stop at the Simmy T. Yare), or 25' by foot as hiker Boyd suggests. Enter the gate on Av. Rambert (opposite the gardener/florist). Walk straight, then take your third right. The Nabokov tomb (which some people have trouble finding) will be the third one on your left (modern, polished grey granite). The gardener's phone, in case you need further information, is 021 964 46 33. If you are accosted by a strange Russian with a mystic's eyes who says he knows everything about Nabokov, decline (he is a fired assistant soccer coach trying to make a fast franc).



If you enter the Palace through the main, lakeside entrance from the Grand-Rue, rather than the back courtyard (which was the principal entry during many of the Nabokovs' years there), you will find yourself in a modern atrium where a posthumous statue of VN sculpted by the Rukavishnikovs and presented to Montreux by Moscow stood until recently, awaiting the completion of its permanent, park-like site across the street.



If you want a personalized reception, ask for the Director, my very good friend Hans Wiedemann. Even though he came to the Palace when Father was no longer there, he is touchingly proud to manage Nabokov's former residence, and named our floor of the Cygne wing "Étage Nabokov." If he is not there ask for Mme. Bigger, his Publicity Assistant and another dear friend. If you would like to prepare your visit in advance, call the management at 021 962 1212 (you may be switched around and kept on hold, but don't give up). And say hello to head barman Antonio, who is one the very few people still there who knew my father well. He will be either at the hotel bar or at Harry's Club next door.



The station restaurant at Caux is no longer run by my friend Helmut but is still beautifully situated. Or stay on that little blue cog train up to the Rochers-de-Naye (a bit over an hour from Montreux and a splendid ride) where Father walked in summer and I ski in winter.



If you get to Lausanne (30'), visit VN's wonderful butterfly collection at the Cantonal Museum of Zoology, Palais de Rumine, Place Riponne. My mother and I presented it to the museum in accordance with my father's wishes. It is kept as a separate collection and consists of 4323 specimens representing 80% of European species, plus many variants. You should call ahead to arrange a visit. The previous director of the museum was a personal friend, and unfortunately I have not met the current one. However, if you call the director and mention that I suggested it, I'm sure he will be helpful. The number of the museum is 021 316 34 60.